A practical guide to how ingredients function in curly hair care.
Hair responds to complete formulations, concentration and technique — not to isolated ingredient names taken out of context.
The glossary below explains what commonly used ingredients are designed to do. Think of it as understanding each instrument in an orchestra — while remembering it’s the full composition that creates the final result.
CLEANSING AGENTS
Cleansing agents are tools. Selecting the right tool depends on the outcome you want, whether that is gentle regular cleansing, a deeper clean to remove buildup, or chelation to address mineral content. Chelating ingredients are designed to help remove mineral deposits that can accumulate both on and within the hair fibre over time, particularly in hard water areas. Thoughtful cleansing supports balanced scalp function and prepares the hair to respond well to conditioning and styling.
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
A secondary surfactant that boosts lather and helps reduce irritation potential.
Coco Glucoside
A mild, plant-derived cleanser that supports gentle washing.
Decyl Glucoside
A gentle, non-ionic surfactant derived from sugar. Cleanses without aggressive stripping and is often used in low-lather formulas.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
A mild, sulphate-free cleansing agent that produces lather while remaining relatively gentle on the hair and scalp.
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
A mild surfactant often used in cleansing formulas. In styling products, it can assist with foam texture and distribution.
CONDITIONING AND SLIP AGENTS
Conditioning agents reduce friction between hair fibres, improving detangling, smoothness and overall manageability. By helping strands glide past one another more easily, they support curl grouping, reduce mechanical damage and make styling more predictable. For natural texture, managing friction is central to maintaining integrity and reducing unnecessary breakage.
Behentrimonium Chloride
Provides slip, reduces static and smooths the cuticle.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
A conditioning agent that reduces friction, improves detangling and enhances softness. Despite the name, it is not a sulphate cleanser.
Capryloyl Glycerin and Sebacic Acid Copolymer
A conditioning polymer that supports smoothness and flexibility.
Cetrimonium Chloride
Helps detangle and reduce static.
Diheptyl Succinate
A lightweight emollient that improves softness without heaviness.
Glyceryl Stearate
An emollient that softens and smooths the fibre.
Polyquaternium-7
A film-forming conditioning polymer that enhances slip and reduces frizz.
Polyquaternium-10
A film-forming conditioning polymer that enhances slip and reduces frizz.
Polyquaternium-55
A film-forming conditioning polymer that enhances slip and reduces frizz.
Polyquaternium-87
A film-forming conditioning polymer that enhances slip and reduces frizz.
FATTY ALCOHOLS
Fatty alcohols are emollient ingredients that soften and smooth the hair fibre. They are structurally different from short-chain drying alcohols and play an important role in supporting manageability and slip within conditioners and creams. In textured routines, they contribute to softness and help maintain cohesion within curl groupings.
Cetearyl Alcohol
A blend of fatty alcohols that adds slip and texture.
Cetyl Alcohol
A fatty alcohol that softens and improves manageability.
Stearyl Alcohol
Provides structure and conditioning support in creams and conditioners.
HUMECTANTS
Humectants attract and help retain moisture within the hair fibre. Hydration influences elasticity, bounce and flexibility, all of which affect how curls form and behave. When used within a balanced formulation, humectants support resilient, responsive texture.
Betaine
Supports moisture balance and reduces irritation.
Glycerin
Draws moisture toward the hair and supports hydration.
Propylene Glycol
Functions as a humectant and solvent, helping retain moisture and improve distribution of other ingredients, including pigments.
Saccharide Isomerate
Helps bind moisture to the hair fibre.
Sorbitol
A sugar-based humectant that helps maintain moisture.
PROTEINS AND STRUCTURAL SUPPORT
Hair is made of protein, and hydrolysed proteins in haircare provide temporary structural reinforcement to the fibre. They can improve elasticity, enhance definition and support areas of weakness caused by mechanical, environmental or chemical stress. All hair benefits from protein to some degree, with individual strands responding differently depending on condition and density.
Biotin
A vitamin included within formulations to support fibre and scalp health. While not a structural protein, it contributes to overall hair integrity within a complete formula.
Hydrolysed Rice Protein
A small protein that can help support structure and improve elasticity.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
A modified form of rice protein designed to bond effectively to the hair fibre.
Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Extract
Provides lightweight strengthening and elasticity support.
BOTANICAL EXTRACTS
Botanical extracts contribute conditioning support, antioxidant properties and overall fibre enhancement within a formulation. In natural texture care, they complement the structural and conditioning ingredients rather than acting as standalone solutions. Their role is supportive within the broader formula.
Aloe Vera
A hydrating base ingredient that supports slip and moisture.
Blackcurrant Extract
Supports fibre feel and antioxidant benefits.
Gardenia Jasminoides (Gardenia) Fruit Extract
Plant-derived pigment source.
Green Tea Extract
An antioxidant-rich botanical commonly used for scalp and hair conditioning.
Ipomoea Batatas (Red Sweet Potato) Root Extract
A plant-derived extract used primarily for its natural pigment contribution.
Mamaku Extract
A native New Zealand botanical used for fibre conditioning support.
Red Seaweed Extract
Helps support hydration and manageability.
Rosemary Oil
Used in scalp-focused formulas and provides a stimulating sensory experience.
Tea Tree Oil
Commonly included in scalp formulas for cleansing support.
Menthol
Provides a cooling sensation on the scalp.
Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)
An antioxidant vitamin that supports formulation stability and contributes conditioning benefits to the fibre.
Trigonella Foenum-Graecum (Fenugreek) Seed Extract
A plant extract used for conditioning support and fibre feel.
Rosa Centifolia (Rose) Oil
A botanical oil primarily contributing fragrance and minor conditioning support.
Citrus Aurantium Amara (Neroli) Oil
A botanical oil contributing fragrance and minor scalp-conditioning properties.
COLOURANTS AND PIGMENTS
These ingredients provide cosmetic colour correction or tone refinement. They adjust visual tone without permanently altering the hair structure.
CI 60730
A regulated cosmetic colourant used to provide controlled violet toning. In blonde and grey formulas, it helps neutralise yellow or brassy tones by visually balancing the colour.
FILM FORMERS AND HOLD AGENTS
Film-forming ingredients create structure around the hair fibre, helping to maintain curl shape and reduce frizz. They provide hold that supports longevity without necessarily creating stiffness. In natural texture routines, hold is about maintaining structure and definition beyond wash day.
Acrylates Copolymer
Helps structure gel formulas and improve hold consistency.
Hydroxyethylcellulose
A thickening agent that supports gel texture.
Polyquaternium-55
A film-forming polymer that provides flexible hold and helps maintain curl structure without stiffness.
VP/Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate Copolymer
A film-forming polymer that provides structure and hold by creating a flexible coating around the hair fibre as it dries.
VP/VA Copolymer
A film-forming polymer that provides hold in gels.
Xanthan Gum
A natural thickening agent that supports product consistency and distribution.
pH ADJUSTERS AND CHELATORS
The hair cuticle responds to pH balance, and properly adjusted formulations help maintain smoothness and shine. Chelating ingredients are specifically designed to bind to and remove mineral buildup, which can accumulate inside and on the surface of the hair from water and environmental exposure. Removing mineral content can restore softness and improve how products perform.
Acetic Acid
Supports pH balance and shine.
Citric Acid
Adjusts pH and supports cuticle smoothing.
Gluconolactone
Supports formula stability and chelation.
Lactic Acid
A pH-adjusting ingredient that helps support cuticle smoothness.
Sodium Gluconate
Supports chelation and formula stability.
Tartaric Acid
Used to maintain optimal pH levels.
Tetrasodium EDTA
Binds mineral deposits to assist with removal.
Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C)
An antioxidant that supports formulation stability and contributes to pH balance within the product.
EMULSIFIERS AND SOLUBILISERS
Emulsifiers and solubilisers help blend oil- and water-based ingredients together to create stable, consistent formulations. Without them, products would separate and perform unevenly. In curl care, these ingredients support even distribution across the hair, ensuring conditioning agents, pigments and hold components work as intended throughout the fibre.
Polysorbate 20
Helps blend oil- and water-based ingredients together to create a stable, evenly distributed formula.
PRESERVATIVES
Preservatives ensure that products remain safe and stable throughout their use. Without appropriate preservation systems, microbial growth can occur. In professional haircare, stability and safety are essential components of responsible formulation.
Benzyl Alcohol
Part of preservation systems.
Chlorphenesin
Used in combination with other preservatives to prevent microbial growth and maintain product integrity.
Leuconostoc Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Naturally derived preservation support.
Optiphen
A broad-spectrum preservative system.
Phenoxyethanol
A commonly used cosmetic preservative that helps maintain product safety and stability.
Potassium Sorbate
Common preservation component.
Salicylic Acid
Supports preservation and scalp clarity.
Sodium Benzoate
Common preservation component.
Sorbic Acid
Common preservation component.
Undecylenoyl Glycine
A preservation-support ingredient that contributes to microbial balance and overall formula stability.
Capryloyl Glycine
Helps support scalp balance and strengthens the preservation system within the formula.
Caprylyl Glycol
A humectant and preservative booster that supports product stability and safety.
Ethylhexylglycerin
A preservative booster that enhances the effectiveness of the overall preservation system.
OILS AND EMOLLIENTS
Oils and emollients provide lipids that help soften and smooth the hair fibre. Lipids support flexibility and reduce roughness by helping to replenish what may be lost through washing, environmental exposure or chemical processing. In natural texture care, the goal is balanced lipid support that enhances movement and cohesion without unnecessary heaviness.
Abyssinian Oil
Known for gloss and smoothness.
Jojoba Oil
A lightweight oil that supports softness.
Olive Oil Derivatives
Provide lightweight conditioning support.
Squalene
A softening lipid that enhances smoothness.
Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
A heavier oil rich in fatty acids that provides strong lipid support and helps reduce moisture loss in drier or coarser textures.
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
A lightweight oil that supports softness and shine while contributing barrier support.
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
A rich plant butter high in fatty acids that supports moisture retention and improves flexibility in coarse or highly porous hair.
Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
A soft plant butter that provides emollience and helps smooth the fibre surface.
Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Seed Oil
A lightweight oil often used to enhance gloss and smoothness.
Nigella Sativa (Black Cumin) Oil
A plant oil used for scalp and fibre conditioning support.
Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil
A lightweight oil that improves slip and shine without excessive weight.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
A classic emollient oil that supports softness and moisture retention.
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
A conditioning oil that enhances smoothness and manageability.
FRAGRANCE COMPONENTS
Fragrance is included for sensory experience. Some individual fragrance components such as Linalool, Limonene, Coumarin and Benzyl Salicylate may be listed separately due to regulatory requirements.
Preference is personal, and scalp comfort should always guide choice.
A Final Word
Ingredients function within complete formulations. Concentration, pairing and technique all influence outcome. No single ingredient determines whether a product will work for you — your hair’s density, strand width, condition and routine matter just as much.